Session Three: Finger Injury Prevention

Feb 28, 2015Brooklyn Boulders

A good basic rule of thumb: Don’t perform any isolated finger training if you’ve been climbing less than two years.
The truth is that your muscles become strong much faster than your tendons do, so you’ll need to wait for those delicate tendon-morsels within your digits to ripen a little more before you start training them in isolation. In the meantime, you can continue to gradually build finger strength on the climbing wall itself, while continuing to focus on learning good technique and movement skills at the same time!
When you do start to train your fingers, start with easier dead-hangs and other static exercises to condition and build a base, before doing anything more strenuous or dynamic. Remember, you’ll likely not get any warning signs before a tendon or pulley pops, so easing yourself into isolated finger training is key.
Note: finger training is not for kids or teens under 18 years of age…growing bodies are ruptured A2 pulleys and damaged growth plates waiting to happen!
Have patience, please.
Missed Session One and Two? See them here – learn how to warm up properly and how to fall. 
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