M.H. Mix Tape Vol. 3

Jul 15, 2011Brooklyn Boulders

So first of all, Daniel Woods is a machine! He climbs 2 V13’s first try, 2 V13’s second try, and 2 V11’s first try. In six hours! As you may have read in my previous blogs, I’m a Hueco-afficienado, and have tried parts of four of these problems. They are HARD. Those are real V13s.
In order of appearance:
Li, V13… I’ve done the stand start to this (V7) and climbed on the sit start with Ethan Pringle. The feet are horrible and the giant move to the pinch just doesn’t make sense. Neither of us were able to do that move.
Liane, V11…Six minutes later (!!!), Daniel fires off this problem. I watched Ethan flash it on one of my rest days in Hueco, and I’m excited to get on it next time.
The Evangelion, V13…A hard, scary Dave Graham first ascent. Tall and crimpy, climbing over another boulder, AND it’s really hard. Obviously.
Slashface, hard V13…Same start as Evangelion, horrendous feet and sharp holds make this full value. Good friend and BKB regular Mike Feinberg (3rd place at UBC Central Park comp!) took this down this past winter. Watch Daniel’s feet just stick to the wall! Nutz!
Mo Mojo, V11…Daniel styles this problem and tops it out through the scary death choss. Originally graded V12, it’s no gimmie.
Finally, Crown Royal, V13…Daniel gets the second of this Sam Davis problem, traversing below the mega classic, Better Eat Your Wheaties, V8/9. A little contrived, but another hard addition. It’s awesome to watch him try hard at the end of this day.
Needless to say, Daniel won the Hueco Rock Rodeo, the outdoor comp in Hueco Tanks. I don’t need to say much about this video. It pretty much speaks for itself; holy cow!

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