Bouldering…on Long Island…on the beach…in February.
Feb 23, 2011
I had heard tell of a sick-gnar boulder on the tip of Long Island, and last week’s unusually warm weather gave us the chance to finally check it out. Arsalon, more commonly referred to as Gnarsalon, invited us out to climb with his friends from Island Rock, Mike and Justin. Garrett, Mark, and I took the train out to Hicksville then caught a ride with Carsalon to the boulder. Despite half the boulder being wet, we were psyched to schralp.
After warming up on some easy slab, we hopped on the classic Fisherman’s Friend Stand (V3) and then moved onto the sit, creatively named Fisherman’s Friend Sit (V7). Garrett, Mark, and I were able to send and we moved on to trying Swans (V8), the direct finish to the line.
Swans starts on two perfect crimp jugs. A move up right to a good gaston, leads to an incredible lock off move to an underclingy, slopey sidepull. You then slap the most perfect sloper you could ask for, slap again to a left hand sloper, and grab a good right hand sidepull before a few easy finishing moves. Seriously, this line is incredible. Mark was able to dispatch it quickly, and after finding a healhook for the last hard move, Garrett and I were able to send as well.
Next on the agenda was Equinox (V8/9), a cool overhanging bulge with a serious topout. The climb starts on a perfect “smile” rail. One move up right takes you to the lip, and then the business begins. We tried for a while to top it out straight up, but it was friggin’ hard. Even Mark Heal, master of the mantle and other Yosemite shenanigans couldn’t pull it off. He did, however, find a crimp out to the right that led to an easier topout, somewhere in the V8 range. We weren’t sure how the line was originally done, but this seemed like the most obvious way.
We spent a little more time trying one of the other lines, a V7 on the side opposite Fisherman’s Friend. The warm weather and sun weren’t enough to dry it out though, and the wet slopey crimps proved to be too much for us. Garrett was, however, able to blow off one of the crimps and walk away with a sweet war wound.
This boulder is pretty incredible and we all had a great day.
Gnarsalon is the man for driving us around and taking all the pictures.