Routesetters

Too Many Boxcars!

Oct 08, 2010Brooklyn Boulders

Thursday morning was looking grim when I met Mark, Vadim, and Gail downtown in the rain.  Luckily, by the time we reached the Gunks, the skies had cleared and the wind was aiding our cause.  We warmed up at the top of the Carriage Road, and Gail came agonizingly close to sending New Pair of Glasses, V7.
We worked our way down to the Euphoria boulder; we spent a few minutes trying to fathom how to pull off the ground on Ivan’s Euphoria Project but decided it was impossible.  Mark was motivated to try Squeenos, V10, as he’d only ever tried in the heat before.  He was able to make a quick ascent, despite the slimy condition of the crimps.

Mark: Squeenos, V10

We then wandered down to the Boxcar Boulder.  I was psyched to hop on the arete, since I hadn’t tried it since my  days of climbing V5.  It took a few goes to work out the beta but I was able to send.  Gail was crushing, and she was able to do all the moves and was close on linking it.
Jeremy: Boxcar Arete, V8

Gail: Boxcar Arete, V8

Vadim, sporting his bright orange “sending pants”, was able to make the first ascent of the epic boxcar linkup: the boxcar traverse into the boxcar arete, appropriately dubbed Too Many Boxcars.  Climbing more like a route, Vadim gave it the grade of 5.13c, and as a boulder it is somewhere in the V10 range.

Vadim: Too Many Boxcars, 5.13c/V10

A great day was had by all, and we can’t wait for the temps to get even better.
-Jeremy

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