Climbing and the City

Oct 01, 2010Brooklyn Boulders

A Weekend of Climbing
A few Fridays ago, MPHC hosted the fifth annual Reel Rock Tour, which consisted of five short climbing from around the world. We crowded into the small climbing space of MPHC and sat down to watch the films. It was cool to see how diverse climbing can be—Dean Potter with his base-soloing (base-jumping and climbing combo), Chris Sharma still working on his 5.15 project in Spain, First Round First Minute, Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson putting up hard boulder problems all over America. Their segment was the best, as it showed how dedicated they are and how much training they do. It had one awesome shot of Daniel doing nearly a dozen one-arm pull-ups. It was cool to see the video and drink the free cheap beer. It was a fun night, and some BKB regulars showed to enjoy the films.
The next morning I went to Double Right at the Gunks with Mike Feinberg, Emily Chang, Pete Juhl and my beautiful girlfriend, Gia Harris. Although my excitement was high in the car ride, the rest of our crew was restless. Pete had just woken up from a wild night that brought him home at 5 am. He was unsure whether he would be game to climb. He made it to the car, but ended up sleeping on a crash pad half way through the day. We arrived at Double Right and headed straight to the boulder where people usually warm up. Mike and Pete, having never been to Double Right before, were not psyched to climb on the Orange Boulder, which earned its name by the bright orange patina. Instead they opted to warm up on Pipebomb, a V10. We warmed up, though none of us were able to send the sit-start. We were all able to climb the stand start, Boston Tea Bag Party, V7. We moved to a few different problems, but Mike and Pete’s psych waned and Gia grew tired. We left the Gunks early, at around 5:30, expecting to get home quickly—but we were wrong. There was some sort of accident on Palisades Parkway, and while North-bound was completely closed, South-bound was practically stationary for miles. We finally made it home after four hours on the road.

Sunday I was hoping would be far more productive than Saturday. Route-setter Jeremy Bini and his girlfriend Amy Dupack met me at my house at 10, psyched to climb. We grabbed our crash pads and hopped on Metro North towards White Plains, where Amy’s car was parked. We made our way to Ice Pond, with only sketchy directions. An hour later, when we arrived, it was hot—78 degrees—but we remained psyched. We ran to the boulders, warmed up, and began to try a few things. Jeremy climbed some of the classics, like Mercury in Retrograde, V9, and The Official, V7. We were both psyched to climb on Diesel, V10/11 and Unleaded , V9. Jeremy cruised Unleaded in less than 10 tries, and was stoked to be climbing outside. He was feeling strong for his upcoming trip to Joe’s Valley, Utah. It took me more goes, but I desperately made it to the top. We worked on Diesel and did all the moves, but both decided we would need to return for the better temps. My friend Garrett has a rule not to go to Ice Pond before November 1st and after May 1st. Enthused for the good winter temps!!

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