Select Your Region

This choice will be remembered for future visits.

The Skin Game

"I hold my fist up towards you vowing vengeance!"

No send of Three Degrees of Separation; But it’s not game-over. I am still confident that I will send it. I will return with more time (hopefully sooner rather than later), some better conditions would be nice, and some healthier skin too. Since it was really hot during the day, I always had to wait until about 7p before getting on the route for ideal conditions. It was mentally draining at times waiting around all day just to have the time for one good burn in the evening, but that was all part of the game I guess.

Aussie mate Hugh cooling off (There is water below).
One of the cliff's most popular lines Lapinerie 5.12b sees some BKB action.

My skin never fully healed after completely shredding it during the first few work sessions. But I think I have mastered the art of taping so that it enabled me to keep climbing longer. I have provided instructions which I hope will be invaluable to those who like to train hard and become inhibited due to skin loss.

BK Taping Method

So my play-by-play of the route: There was one move in particular that shut me down on red-point. It’s a big precision deadpoint from two slope under-clings out right to a deep three finger pocket. This leads into two crimp moves  and a pocket which brings you into the dynos. The whole ‘intro’ into the dynos, I guess-timate, is 5.14a climbing. Tack on three relatively low-percentage dynos and a V7 ‘outro’ and that properly adds up to 14d. Try following the route with my personal notes.

It really helps to sketch out moves onto paper if you are projecting something seriously.
A staple in my diet. Prince cookies. Basically giant Keebler Fudge Cookies.

Now I’m in Geneva, Switzerland for a quick visit to climb with my good friend Steve. A few months ago we did a trip together to Kalymnos, Greece and had an amazing time pulling down on some world-class limestone. This is a major destination that is still developing and is a must-visit location for all sport climbers.

Magical Tufas

Unfortunately we won’t make it to there on this trip, but I’m already trying to fish in time for another trip there soon. On this occasion, we have just a little time for a quick route so we headed near the mountain town of Saint-Gervais by Mont Blanc to Bionnassay. Since I’ve mostly been climbing on [often-polished] limestone the past few weeks, it was nice to be on some granite. It finally dawned on me how much I have taken east coast rock for granted (and American rock in general)–This rock over here is great but the stuff we have nearby home is awesome.

Kevin cruising up Biologique; a classic rope-stretching 5.10b
Steve doesn't mess around; He maintains his status as the "coolest climber in the world."

That’s it for now. I leave for Scotland tomorrow morning for a week-long trip there.

Posted in Blog